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依然在伦敦 (Anglophile是怎样炼成的)

已有 2924 次阅读 2011-5-7 13:20 |系统分类:生活其它| 伦敦



搁浅在这个岛上,即使只在伦敦里转悠,并不需要到别处去,仍然会感到局促,好像一不小心就会撞到它的边缘。好在这个岛还不错,如果你能慢慢地欣赏这里的一些小事,包括在阴雨天打着伞在公园里散步,在大英博物馆的中间向上看那玻璃棚顶上的天空,在黄灯一闪一闪之中让汽车给你让路,在查令街上的书店里慢慢的品书,。。。

然后你会默认,伦敦就是算是世界上最好的大城市了。她比巴黎少了些华丽,多了些朴实,不失皇家的大气。她的活力逼近纽约,在某些方面甚至超过纽约,比如更久远的历史,更浓绿的公园,更文学的报纸,更多的剧院博物馆等等。还有那些更让人舒服(cosy)的小主街(high street),小后街,小花园,小书店。小说里的一个人物走过贝克大街,过了玛丽邦路,绕了一圈,很有文学味道,而在纽约的话,就是过了第四大道,穿过第四十四街,文学味道就差了不少。。。 

除了破旧的西斯儒机场和那个鹤发黑眉的财务大臣(要上台的娃娃脸看起来也不怎么样),还有经常下雨的天气,我觉得伦敦可以说是近乎完美。就连天气,感觉也因人而异,对我来说不是问题。冬天不冷,夏天不热。烟雨过后,街道干净亮丽。路边的树和草,在冬天也绿油油的,让人有不识节气的感觉。 



从伦敦中国城出来向北走,穿过沙福兹贝里大道, 两分钟就到了在瓦多街上的圣安妮小教堂。有一天我散步到那儿,去看散文家威廉·哈兹里特的小墓碑。因为他,英国散文才可以说是到了巅峰,不只有哲理,更多了一种恰到好处的浪漫。阴雨天读他,会感到阳光的温暖。蜗居在都市,能听到山野的呼唤。读他对不朽青春之描绘,会感到一振:“去看金色的太阳、蔚蓝的天空和一望无际的海洋;去出行在青葱的原野,体验做万物之首的情怀。去俯视那令人惊愕的陡峭悬崖,眺望那遥远的阳光峡谷;世界在脚下延伸,星光不再遥远!去读史,领略帝国的兴衰和世代的交替。去倾听泰尔,西顿,巴比伦和苏撒昔日的荣耀,然后说:皆为往事,逝者如斯。此时此地,是我的世界!”

哈兹利特的散文用优美的文字谈艺术,评文学,论政治,说出游。如今伦敦大报小报周末版的内容,都能看到哈兹利特的影子。



有一天读桑塔亚那的《世界是我的东道主》,感到有一些共同的细微感情。我们都喜欢英格兰,但却都是流浪者,不会和她永远在一起,知道有一天会离她而去。他曾描述过: 

[1932年]最后这次访问之后,我与英格兰的告别几乎就像是逃跑。想到这内容丰富的一章已经永远结束,何尝不是一种解脱。就像埋葬一位早已离婚的妻子,最终有了和平。不再想修修补补,关于往昔的拥抱的记忆不再被新的失望所笼罩。我曾经以深沉宁静的欢乐拥抱过英格兰。她简朴、杰出,有怡人的生活习俗,几近完美。她的待人接物之道正派、明智、温和,她的目光和声音多么美丽动听,她的感情多么健康! 虽然我是个坚定的流浪者,不适合做她的情人或丈夫,然而她有时候看起来是有点爱我的。她理解,我是可信赖的,实事求是,不会见到真相而震惊。她感到,我像一位诗人那样爱她,没有要求,没有恭维,只是在他真挚的狂喜中夹有一丝无法治愈的痛楚。 

四 

离开伦敦的时候,会不会也像比尔·布莱森在他的《小岛日记》中说的: 忽然,在一瞬间,领悟到为什么会喜欢伦敦 - 实际上,是她所有的,每一处,好的还是坏的. 

 


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Bill Bryson: "I can never understand why Londoners fail to see that they live in the most wonderful city in the world.  It is far more beautiful and interesting than Paris, if you ask me, and more lively than anywhere but New York - and even NY can’t touch it in lots of important ways.  It has more history, finer parks, a livelier and more varied press, better theaters, more numerous orchestras and museums, leafier squares, safer streets, and more courteous inhabitants than any other large city in the world.


How is it possible, in this wondrous land where the relics of genius and enterprise confront you at every step, where every realm of human possibility has been probed and challenged and generally extended, where many of the very greatest accomplishments of industry, commerce and the arts find their seat, how is it possible in such a place that when at length ....


It looked so peaceful and wonderful that I could almost have cried, and yet it was only a tiny part of this small, enchanted island. Suddenly, in the space of a moment, I realized what it was that I loved about Britain -- which is to say, all of it.  Every bit of it, good and bad -- Marmite, village fetes, country lanes, people saying “mustn’t grumble”, and “I’m terribly sorry but’, ....


How easily we lose sight of all this.  what an enigma Britain will seem to historians when they look back on the second half of the twentieth century.  Here is a country that fought and won a noble war, dismantled a mighty empire in a generally benign and enlightened way, created a far-seeing welfare state - in short, did nearly everything right - and then spent the rest of the century looking on itself as a chronic failure.  The fact is that this is still the best place in the world for many things - to post a letter, go for walk, watch television, buy a book, venture out for a drink, go to a museum, use the bank, get lost, seek help, or stand on a hillside and take in a view.


All of this came to me in the space of a lingering moment.  I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again.  I like it here.  I like it more than I can tell you.  and then I turned from the gate and got in the car and knew without doubt that I would be back."




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