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For the past two weeks we were on a Russian Imperial Waterways tour during which at least half the time we did not have Internet access. I, being a technological dinosaur, did not know how to download digital photos from my camera to my iPad nor how to post articles from my iPad to ScienceNet. Apparently it requires something different than from my desktop.

一恍39年: 俄羅斯舊地重游

The year was 1973 during the height of the cold war and the hot Vietnam war. The US and USSR thought to improve the relationship between the two countries and jointly instituted a senior level scientist exchanged program. I was one of the chosen from the US side. I was not yet 40 years old with a six month pregnant wife and a 12 year old son and a 10 year old daughter in tow. Four and half of us embarked on an one month trip to Moscow, Leningrad (now renamed St. Petersburg), Kiev (now part of the country Ukraine ) and Novosibirsk (major town of Siberia). I was still doing military classified work in the US and thus had to be briefed and de-briefed before and after our trip by the FBI and the CIA. But we were young and do not know what is to be afraid of what can happen.

Now 39 years later we are here again in Moscow and St. Petersburg as a regular tourist on a organized tour.  What a contrast!

1.      In 1973, there were no tourists in USSR. In the famed Red Square, there were long lines at the Lenin's tomb ( same as in 1979 when I visited the Tiananmen square where there was a long queue at Chairman Mao's mausoleum). Otherwise, very few people in the vast square. But in 2012, the square is jammed with people, rock concerts, tourist souvenir stalls everywhere. Many Chinese tourists. Most sales person will speak a few words of Chinese - 你i好, 便宜貨 , , , In 1973, the only barely Chinese food can be had is in the Beijing hotel. Now, right outside our hotel is a rather authentic 北京烤鴨店 and other Chinese restaurants.

2.      In 1973, we stayed at the USSR Academy hotel  ( very similar to 中國的 單位的招待所 in sparse furnishing). Now we stay at a 5 star grand Marriott hotel totally world class in downtown Moscow.

3.      In 1973, the Moscow subway system is grand and the first in the world. We were totally impressed. In 2012, the subway system is still clean and impressive but other excellent subway systems such as in Washington DC and other countries are available.

4.      In 1973, the USSR is a closed society . Very little world news were available inside the country for average citizens ( not unlike China during the cultural revolution). Of course CNN, the Internet and e-mail have not been invented yet. Today, everything is at your finger tips at least in big cities.

5.      In 1973, the Moscow Kremlin ground are like 中南海 not available to ordinary citizens. Because we were government guest, we were able to see a little bit of the grounds and treasures such as the  Faberge eggs. Today the entire kremlin is open to tourists. The extensive national treasures of Russia (other than those in the Hermitage)  are  available for viewing in the two huge floors of the "Armory" on the Kremlin grounds. By the way, the word "kremlin" means "fortress" in Russian and is a generic term (e.g., most ancient Russia town s have a kremlin) while foreigners tend  to associate the word as a specific term related to the place where the central governmental power reside.

6.      In terms of physical infrastructure development, Moscow is approximately where Beijing was 20 years ago.

7.      As part of a culture exchange, we also had a Q&A session with 8 college students ( 19 to 20 year olds) from a second tier university. None of the students have a driver license and only four of the students' family own automobiles. This gives you some idea of the wealth of Russian middle class.

Here are some photos of Moscow 2012

The famed St. Basil Church on the Red Square

Moscow Red Square 2012. I tried but failed to find a photo I took at the same spot 39 ywears ago showing a nearly empty Red Square with the Kremlin walls on the right, the famed Gum department Store on the left and the St. Basil church beyond the tree in the center

Two of the five churches inside the Moscow Kremlin in the cathedral square

Another well known spot inside the Kremlin

Moscow State University Main building. What buidling in one of the Beijing's universities this reminds you of?

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