I’ve written before about methods to quantify cooking and cuisine similarities. Well, in a new paper posted to the arXiv, researchers have explored China’s regional cuisines and found that similarities are due to geography and not climate similarities (which might be assumed, due to allowing one to grow the same foods). What this means is that cuisine is much more of a cultural artifact, that can spread and change. Here’s the abstract, which highlights a fun data source:
Food occupies a central position in every culture and it is therefore of great interest to understand the evolution of food culture. The advent of the World Wide Web and online recipe repositories has begun to provide unprecedented opportunities for data-driven, quantitative study of food culture. Here we harness an online database documenting recipes from various Chinese regional cuisines and investigate the similarity of regional cuisines in terms of geography and climate. We found that the geographical proximity, rather than climate proximity is a crucial factor that determines the similarity of regional cuisines. We develop a model of regional cuisine evolution that provides helpful clues to understand the evolution of cuisines and cultures.
美食贯穿着我们生活的方方面面,然而以往学者对美食学的研究大都集中在历史学、社会学、哲学等角度,对美食的定量分析则寥寥无几。近年来随着互联网的发展,在线美食数据的出现使得对美食进行深度定量分析成为可能。Sherman PW等人1999年在Bioscience发表的Darwinian gastronomy: Why we use spices一文研究了香味料的食用与当地温度的关系,认为生活所在地温度越高的人们越倾向于食用更多的香味料[1]。2011年Scientific Report发表了Yong-Yeol Ahn等人关于“分子美食学”的工作[2],发现西方料理往往会用搭配让许多味道融合在一起,然后东方料理往往避开相同味道的食材。也许正是食材搭配及做法的不同是造就了东西方食物特色风味截然不同。